Most popular questions
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Lubricants are always optimized to meet the requirements of international classifications (API, ACEA). However, there are many ways of formulating a specific type of lubricant. Mixing two oils that have equivalent properties will not pose a problem, but final performance cannot be guaranteed. All market oils (petrol engine or diesel, mineral or synthetic) are mixable. However, a blending of two oil qualities lower the superior quality.
Lubricants are always optimized to meet the requirements of international classifications (API, ACEA). However, there are many ways of formulating a specific type of lubricant. Mixing two oils that have equivalent properties will not pose a problem, but final performance cannot be guaranteed. All market oils (petrol engine or diesel, mineral or synthetic) are mixable. However, a blending of two oil qualities lower the superior quality.
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Semi-synthetic and synthetic oils are made from non-conventional bases using sophisticated chemical processes which confer special properties to the finished product. First, the high level of viscosity of the base oils used gives the finished lubricant remarkably stable viscosity whatever the temperature. This property is one of its major advantages over mineral oils, made from conventional bases which require a greater number of additives in order to improve viscosity. The stability of lubrication in all temperatures guarantees optimum efficacy in the cold starting phase which is particularly demanding on the engine ? as well as under conditions of extreme heat. Synthetic-based lubricants show greater resistance to oxidation, which gives them longer effective life thus guaranteeing longer engine life. The use of non-conventional bases, finally, permits the elaboration of more fluid lubricants, without being more volatile; resulting in a reduction of oil consumption.
Therefore, choosing a synthetic based oil is the technologically advance choice, for greater efficacy, longevity and controlled oil consumption.
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A multigrade oil is one whose proper
Multigrade oils provide better engine protection at low and high temperatures than monograde oils, in that they maintain optimum viscosity over the engine operating temperature range.
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In order to fulfil the lubrication and shaft cooling needs of the turbo-compressor, oil must answer to very strict criteria. The shaft reaches, a very high temperature, due to the proximity of the exhaust gasses, a very high temperature. Oil must lubricate the shaft continuously otherwise the high temperatures would permanently damage it and the temperature would then very rapidly reach very high levels.
These conditions mean the oil has to offer considerable detergent property, an important resistance to oxidisation and deposit formation, but especially very high a thermic stability. The use of SYNTHETIC oils is therefore the most recommended solution in these conditions. Turbo-compressors are characteristic of the diesel engines, as it is very easy for petrol engines to reach the same power level by other means, such as electronic injection, cylinder head multi-valves, etc.
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The reply is clear and net: NO.
This challenge has been met by the CATALYTIC CONVERTER, whose role is to complete the combustion of the exhaust gas just before they escape into the atmosphere. In order to respect the environment oils must offer a high lubrication property, better detergent and dispersant properties as well as a low sulphur and phosphorous content. These properties are essential for oils that will be used in vehicles equipped with catalytic converters. The use of a non adapted oil can damage the catalytic converter. Synthetic lubricants are highly recommended because of the intrinsic properties of their base.
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- larger highway networks and a higher annual average of kilometers traveled,
- deterioration of city driving conditions.
- when the vehicle is not being used (for several hours), the engine oil sinks in the crankcase so that, on starting, it takes a certain amount of time (a few microseconds) to again reach all parts of the engine that need to be lubricated. Since a multigrade oil is more fluid at low temperatures, it reaches the various engine components more quickly than a monograde oil, thereby reducing wear on starting.
- Multigrade oil allow "saving fuel" around 1.5% to 3% then monograde oil
- Because lubricants collect particles of internal and external pollution (carbonic matter, particles of worn metal, ?)
- Because an oil?s efficacy diminishes because of : - dilution by water and fuel, - oxidation, - the consumption of additives, - shearing
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Yes, you have to adjust the viscosity according to the conditions of the vehicle's usage, the environment and the climatic conditions.
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If you carry out your own oil change, you will need a 5-litre container, given that the average capacity of the sump is 4.5 litres.
If you are topping up between oil changes, a 1 litre container will suffice: it is practical, easy to use and cheaper.
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In closed containers stocked at over 0°C, your oil will retain all its qualities. However, it is recommended that opened containers be well closed in order to avoid contamination by water.
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Pour it in the backyard ? It?s against the law !
The quality of oils and their biodegradability have improved but these products are filled with particles of pollution which can be harmful to the environment. You may deposit your oil in special containers which can be found in the parking lots of supermarkets or at your neighbourhood garage.
- At least once a year
- The frequency recommended by the manufacturer may be modified according to: - The lubricant used, - Vehicle use (country, city, highway), - Thermal and mechanical requirements.
- Never drive with an oil level below the minimum mark on the dipstick Below this mark there is not enough oil, thus causing more rapid circulation of the fluid and accelerated wear on the oil.
- It is recommended to check the level regularly every 1,000 km and especially before a long trip.
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Engine oil changing has to be well prepared.
Before learning how to change engine oil, we remind you that checking engine oil color will not give you any information about its degradation
If you wonder how to change motor oil, you have have to check if you have all information needed:
In some cases, car oil change can be easy, in other cases you need special tools.
How much oil needed for oil change? How much oil do I need for a oil change ? It depends on the size of your engine. For a passenger car, you need between 3 and 7 liters but in some cases, for cars with a dry oil sump it can be 10 to 12 liters and even more. The exact oil volume is indicated in your user manual or can be asked to your service partner. The oil filter has to be changed at the same time. Therefore the oil volume is slightly higher when you renew the oil filter at the same time.
Before change car oil : be aware that the engine oil is a highly sensitive part of your engine.
- Diesel oil change /How to oil change - Step 1: check if you are skilled. Have you already changed oil by your own? Do you know where do you drain the oil?
- Engine oil change/ How to do oil change - Step 2: Before starting you should check if you have the tools to open the drain screw and the oil filter tool. In modern cars there are electronic service indicators which have to be reseated.
- How do you change oil - Step 3: Your service partner is trained to carry out Lube oil change on different cars. The equipment you need for and the way to proceed can change according to the year, model and brand of your vehicle. When you are not familiar with oil changes, we recommend to ask your service partner for a personal training or to let him carry out the oil change.
- Change oil car/ How to change my oil -Step 4 : There are different ways to change your oil. The classic way is to drain the oil by a special plug in the oil pan. But in some cars there is a so called dry oil sump where the oil is stored in a separate oil tank and pumped during engine run back in the engine
Change the oil/ How do I change my oil In some cases it is more comfortable to change the oil by aspiring with a special oil sucker like a vacuum cleaner. The oil is sucked out by a pipe which has to be introduced in the dipstick tube.
How to flush engine oil?/ How to drain oil from car? In some cases it is better to suck out the oil by the dipstick tube to prevent dirt und dust coming into the engine. You should be aware that a little quantity of oil in the oil pan will remain. By draining the oil through the plug, the remaining oil is minimized.
How to change oil on a car /The most secure and comfortable way is certainly to suck the oil out.
How to change the oil in your car / How do you change oil in your car –It takes more time to drain the oil by the plug in the oil pan. Often there are some parts to be removed before getting access to the oil pan which takes also some minutes more. Sucking the oil by the dip stick pipe is certainly the quickest way.
How to change your oil /How to do a oil change on a car- How to change oil filter?
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First of all, you might wonder when to change oil filter? It depends on the condition of your car and driving habits. As there is remaining oil and wear particles in the filter when the oil is drained, we advise you to change the oil filter at the same time as the engine oil.
We advise to use only genuine parts which are approved by the car manufacturer. There are big differences in oil filter quality. Do not take any risk in using non approved parts for your engine..
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How to change oil filter?
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Oil filter can be located directly on the engine block or near by the engine in the engine department. There are screw cartouches or cylindrical paper filters which are located in a special housing. Before changing the cartridge you have to remove a cover.
There is special knowledge needed to carry out an oil filter change. We highly recommend to contact your service partner for these specific information or to let him carry out car oil changes!
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Some of you might wonder What is brake fluid? or What is brake fluid for? In hydraulic brake systems, brake fluid transmits the force of your foot on the pedal to the brakes. Brake fluid is one of the most important fluids in a car: It’s the connection between the mechanical action of your brake pedal and the brake linings that creates friction to slow your vehicle speed. It’s essential for road safety that you use the right brake fluid and maintain it at the recommended level at all times
How do you check the level of your brake fluid
- Step 1: Park your car on level ground and put the parking brake on.
- Step 2: Open the hood and secure it safely.
- Step 3: Locate the reservoir. It’s easy to find: look for a small, semi-transparent reservoir behind the steering wheel. It’s attached to the brake master cylinder, which is a small metal block near by the brake pedal in the engine compartment.
- Step 4: Checking brake fluid is fairly simple. You check the brake fluid level by making sure it is between the MIN and MAX marks on the reservoir. It should be a light golden brown color if it’s still usable. If the brake fluid level is under the MIN mark, see a qualified mechanic. Note that worn brake linings or a leak from the hydraulic system could be the reason for low brake fluid.
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A brake fluid change should be done regularly.
Brake fluid absorbs water from the air. That’s why the boiling point decreases over its lifetime. The result is poor to no braking at all. You should change your brake fluid regularly to keep your brake system working efficiently.
How to add brake fluid. Check the brake fluid level to ensure it is between the MIN and MAX marks on the reservoir. If the brake fluid level is under the MIN mark, see a qualified mechanic.How to put in brake fluid and How to fill brake fluid. Before adding brake fluid, you should be aware that this is not usually necessary. There is no brake fluid consumption. Note that worn brake linings or a leak from the hydraulic system could be the reason for low brake fluid. Do not add brake fluid if the brake fluid reservoir is empty or if your brake pedal goes right to the floor. The brake system may have a leak. Don’t use your car until the problem has been repaired by a qualified mechanic.
If you want to know more...
What’s the difference between brake fluid and power steering fluid?
They are made of different substances and have different purposes. Their viscosities are specifically adapted to each system, brake fluid to the brake system and power steering fluid to the steering system. The elastomers used in these systems are tailored to these special fluids and would be damaged in case of misuse. They should never be mixed.
What is power steering fluid used for?
Power steering fluid is a hydraulic fluid used in the steering system. The fluid runs through the power steering pump, which pushes the power steering fluid to help you turn the steering wheel.
How to add power steering fluid?
Locate the power steering fluid reservoir. It is usually on or near the engine in the engine compartment, and may be plastic. Wipe the reservoir with a clean cloth to check the fill level. There is no steering fluid consumption. The level should be between the Max and the MIN mark on the reservoir. If the fluid level is under the MIN mark, there may be a leak in the system. Please see a qualified mechanic. To keep your steering system in good condition, you should change the fluid occasionally. The steering system is a major safety feature of your car. Only qualified mechanics should work on it. Ask for TotalEnergies products, such as TOTAL FLUIDE LDS, FLUIDE DA or LHM PLUS.
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Most people overlook checking engine oil. It’s easy to do, but can cause major damage requiring thousands of dollars of repairs. You need to check motor oil before any long trip to avoid major damage. In case of use for work, we recommend that you check your oil level daily.
Checking car oil is quite easy
We recommend that you check the oil level in the morning when the engine is cold and most of the oil has run down into the engine’s oil pan. The oil pan forms the bottom of your engine and is the reservoir for the engine oil. You will need a clean cloth or paper towels , a can of oil and a funnel. We also recommend wearing disposable gloves. Use only the recommended oil for your engine. Find the right TOTAL QUARTZ engine oil for your engine at http://www.lubricants.total.com/consumers/lube-solutions-for-cars.html.
How to check your car oil
- Step 1: Put your car on a level surface and turn the engine off. Make sure the engine is cool.
- Step 2: Lift the hood and secure it.
- Step 3: Locate the dipstick: it’s usually a color that stands out (often yellow, red or white). If you can’t find it, check the owners’ manual.
- Step 4: Check the engine oil With a towel, take the dipstick out, wipe it clean and check the high and the low marks at the tip of the dipstick. The dipstick is immersed in the oil in the oil pan.
How to check motor oil level. Reinsert the dipstick, pull it out and check the oil. If your engine oil level is below the low mark, you’ll have to add more. Do not fill up over the maximum level.
Even if your oil is black, it may still deliver the required performance.How to top up your oil:
- Put the dipstick back, being careful that it does not touch anything and pick up engine dirt.
- Remove the oil filler cap, normally located on the top of the engine. If you cannot find it, check your owner’s manual.
- Use a clean funnel. If you can’t, turn the container upside down.
- Pour in the amount necessary.
- Put the cap back on.
- Recheck the level to make sure it is below the maximum level. Overfilling can damage the catalyst. Start with a small amount and repeat the procedure as necessary.
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Just like your engine needs oil to lubricate the different components and protect them against wear and corrosion, your transmission is as well lubricated by special fluid called transmission fluid.
Maintaining the proper transmission fluid level is important to keep your transmission shifting properly and your car running smoothly.
How do I check my transmission fluid?
- Step 1: Check your owner’s manual. Do you have a manual or an automatic transmission? Manual transmissions don’t usually have a dipstick. They are factory filled. No top-up is needed. The fluid only has to be changed in the event of repairs.
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Step 2: Locate the transmission dipstick if you have an automatic transmission. The transmission fluid dipstick is usually red (yellow or white for the engine oil dipstick). The owner’s manual will help you to find the dipstick. If you're lucky, it will be labeled
- On rear-wheel drive vehicles, the dipstick is usually on the passenger side of the engine compartment, near the back of the engine.
- On front-wheel drive vehicles, the dipstick is usually on the driver’s side, on one side of the transmission. If you don’t find it, your owner’s manual should show you where to look for it.
Many cars don’t have a transmission dipstick. The oil level may have to be checked using an electronic device or by removing a screw in the transmission housing. Checking fluid levels in a sealed transmission is a much more complicated process. The average car owner does not have the skills required to check the transmission fluid level. If your car doesn’t have a dipstick have your local transmission shop or dealership check the level. A good time to do this is while you’re having the engine oil changed
If your car has a transmission dipstick, you should check the transmission fluid level regularly. - Step 3: How do you check transmission fluid? or How to check transmission oil
Remove the stick, wipe it with a clean cloth, reinsert it, leave it in for 5 seconds, then pull back out and check. Add fluid if necessary. Always use the fluid recommended by the manufacturer.
Add only a little at a time, checking the level with the dipstick each time. It's easy to add transmission fluid, but fairly difficult to remove it if you add too much.
If the transmission requires more than a quart or is using fluid regularly, take your car in to have it checked for leaks.
How to properly check transmission fluid. You can also check the color and smell.
Color is very important for transmission oil. It should not change from its normal light brown, semi-transparent appearance. Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is a cherry red. If it is dark red or brown, you should have your fluid changedIf it smells burned or has particles in it, you should also have your transmission serviced. What is a transmission service? It consists of changing the transmission fluid filter before adding the transmission fluid.
Impress your family when they ask you how to check your transmission fluid or how do you check transmission oil.
How to check automatic transmission fluid?
What is automatic transmission fluid?
Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is the fluid used in vehicles with automatic transmissions. It is usually red or green.
Why check the automatic transmission fluid level?
Automatic transmission fluid is the lifeblood of the transmission. The fluid produces the hydraulic pressure needed to operate the transmission. It also cools and lubricates the transmission. When the fluid level is low, the pump may draw air into the system. Air in the hydraulic system interrupts the proper flow of automatic transmission fluid. Damage can occur very quickly when transmission fluid is low.
How to check automatic transmission fluid level?
For transmissions with a dipstick, the procedure is the same as described above.
Many Fords, Toyotas, GMs and other vehicles no longer have an automatic transmission dipstick for checking the fluid level. Automakers are eliminating automatic transmission dipsticks. Newer transmissions are far more complex than older models and the transmission fluid levels are far more critical. Special procedures are required to check the automatic transmission fluid level in these models.If you want to go further, learn how to change automatic transmission fluid:
- Drain the transmission fluid: First, disconnect the cooling line running from the transmission to the radiator. Connect a piece of rubber tubing to the pipe and place the free end of the tube in an empty container. Start the engine and let it idle. Transmission fluid should flow out of the cooling line and into the container. As soon as the fluid stops flowing, turn off the engine. You can then reconnect the cooling line to the radiator.
- Remove the bolts holding the drain oil pan to the bottom of the transmission.
- Clean the drain pan with transmission fluid.
- Replace the filter.
- Replace the gasket.
- Replace the pan: Once the filter and gasket are in place, put the pan back on the transmission. Hand-tighten the bolts for the first few turns so that you don't strip the threads. Then use a torque wrench to finish tightening the bolts. Do not to overtighten the bolts or you will damage the threads in the transmission and dent the pan.
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Fill with automatic transmission fluid: Dexron III ATF is the most common, but refer to the owner's manual to choose the appropriate automatic transmission fluid. Check the amount as well.
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Before giving you all the necessary tips to change antifreeze, let’s take a closer look at what antifreeze does.
What is coolant?
Coolant is a liquid stored in your car’s radiator. It has two main functions: helping to prevent engine overheating and corrosion and lubricating the parts it is in contact with, like the water pump. What’s the difference between antifreeze and coolant?
Coolant vs antifreeze:
A coolant should be always an antifreeze. These fluids keep liquids from freezing at low temperatures and boiling at temperatures over 100° Celsius, which are common in city traffic in the summer. Only the correct mix ratio between antifreeze and water provides the required protection for your cooling system.
How many antifreeze types are there?
There are two main groups of antifreeze, mono ethylene glycol-based and mono propylene glycol-based. We recommend you to refer to the owner’s manual to find out which type your engine needs and the correct antifreeze ratio (antifreeze has to be mixed with water). Each antifreeze contains special additives to prevent corrosion of the metal surfaces in the cooling system. Do not mix different antifreezes, which will adversely impact additive performance.
When to change antifreeze or how often to change antifreeze/when to change coolant
The automaker specifies how often coolant should be changed. Please check the owner’s manual or ask your dealer or garage.
How to check antifreeze?
Checking antifreeze is very easy.
There is no need to remove the cap on the radiator. Just check to see if the liquid reaches the “full” mark on the side of the reservoir. If it doesn’t, add a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. Some coolants are premixed, so read the instructions on the container to see if you need to add water or can use it as-is.
Only add water to the coolant system in an emergency. If this happens, you’ll have to do a complete flush and change the coolant if the water concentration is above 60% in the coolant after the top-up.
How to flush antifreeze/how to drain engine coolant, change coolant?
Every car model is different when it comes to changing antifreeze. It can be a little tricky to remove all the liquid. In some cases, several screws have to be removed to flush the system. Refilling the system can be even more difficult when there is air in the top parts of the engine. We therefore recommend that you have your dealer change the coolant.
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Need to change your motorbike oil ? Doing it yourself is easy! Let me show you how to change your oil in just 30 minutes! First, remember that your oil should be changed every 5000 km.
You’ll need a seal-tight container for collecting the used oil, a pair of gloves, paper towels, a drain plug gasket, a funnel, an oil filter that’s fits your motorbike, a drain wrench and a filter wrench. That’s it, you’re all set! Place your vehicle on a flat surface and make sure the engine is slightly warm and has been turned off for about one minute.
Place the drain container under the crankcase.
Remove the oil fill plug from the crankcase. Then carefully unscrew the drain plug using the wrench. Be sure to watch for splattering oil, and wait until the oil has completely drained.
Unscrew your old filter. You’re now ready to clean the oil fill plug and drain plug and replace the oil filter gasket.
Pour a small amount of oil into your new filter using the funnel, and deposit a thin layer of oil on the new gasket. Then, clean the oil fill plug and drain plug. Replace the drain plug gasket as well.
Reinstall your filter manually and make sure the drain plug is tightened to the torque specified by the manufacturer.
How do you fill the crankcase with the new oil? Before you go further, check to be sure you’ve chosen an oil recommended by the manufacturer. To do that, look at your motorbike’s service manual.
Now, carefully pour the oil into the crankcase using a funnel.
Wait 2 minutes, then insert the fill plug.
Start up your motorbike and run the engine for a few minutes. Check your oil level again and repeat the process several times if necessary until your oil reaches the maximum level without ever going over.
You’re now set for a safe ride. Stay tuned for new to maintain your engine
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Victories are celebrated with TotalEnergies lubricants every day. Thrilling victories, that make our childhood dreams come true. And then there are the everyday victories, those that make us proud of pursuing the challenges we face day in, day out.
Today, we will take you behind the scenes and reveal some of the secrets of TotalEnergies lubricants.
Thanks to their performance, TotalEnergies lubricants remove impurities, protect from wear and corrosion, act as sealing agents and reduce temperature, making for greater output. Lubricants limit friction by facilitating the free movement of multiple-mechanical parts that come into contact with each other.
In fact, TotalEnergies lubricants alone account for up to 35 % of the engine cooling function.
For more than 100 years now, Total Lubricants has been innovating to extend the lifecycle of your engine by protecting it from wear and corrosion, to reduce fuel consumption thanks to a dedicated Fuel Economy range and to optimise vehicle maintenance costs, through less frequent oil changes.
By using TotalEnergies lubricants you are taking good care of all the vehicle's key mechanical centres - engine, transmission, brakes, boxes and axles
… And perform under the toughest operating conditions…
... for every market segment: from two-wheeled light vehicles to transport, construction, agricultural equipment, drilling and mining activities, leisure craft, waterways and fishing.
The Total Lubricant range was initially developed for racing and benefits from cutting-edge research. Developed in close cooperation with our automotive partners, they are constantly devolving and increasingly innovative!
Our lubricants are approved and recommended by a large number of vehicle manufacturers and are suited to all their vehicles. For now and in the future, Total Lubricants is committed to developing a range of products that comply with environmental standards, are energy efficient and reduce emissions of CO2.
Our performance is measured on race tracks around the world but driven to higher standards every day by you.
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The first vehicles equipped with hydraulic braking systems were launched in 1924. Alcohols, particularly polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol, and glycerol-water mixtures were used as hydraulic fluids. These products didn’t match the requirements of today’s technology and are only of historical interest.
Currently, there are mainly three classes of brake fluids…
The main used today are glycol-ether based, but mineral oil (Citroën Hydraulic Mineral Liquid LHM) and silicone (DOT 5) based fluids are also available. Silicone oils are mainly used on military vehicles in United States and mineral oils are used for some specific applications (Citroen, Rolls Royce…).
Composition Application Spec Advantages Drawbacks Glycol ethers and derivatives 95% of word market DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1 Miscible with water
Low compressibility
Elastomer compatibleHygroscopic Mineral Oils Citroen LHM High boiling point Not miscible with water
Limited rubber
compatibilitySilicone Oils Antique military DOT 5 High boiling point More compressible than glycol fluids
Very expensive
Need specific elastomersThe fact that brake fluids are hygroscopic is at the time an advantage and a drawback…
AN ADVANTAGE,
because water is everywhere and moisture from air can permeate through microscopic pores in the rubber brake hoses, nylon master cylinder reservoir, and through various seals from the hydraulic system. As brake fluids absorb water into solution, the local concentration levels are typically low enough to avoid corrosion and when exposed to low temperatures, the solution can also prevent the water from freezing on its own.
A DRAWBACK,
because water increases the solution viscosity at low temperature and decreases the boiling point of the solution. Fluid containing moisture heats up and turns to steam inside the system creating vapor pockets. Brake fluid becomes thus more compressible loosing its ability to transmit the force necessary to effectively stop the car safely.
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Low compressibility
Brake fluids must maintain low level of compressibility which remains low even when temperatures and pressure vary.
Constant boiling point (= high « wet » boiling point)
Water/moisture can be found in almost all brake systems. Moisture enters into the brake system in several ways.
For example condensation can form in lines and calipers. As caliper and line temperatures heat up and then cool repeatedly, condensation occurs, leaving behind an increase in moisture/water. Over time the moisture becomes trapped in the internal sections of calipers and lines master cylinders.Low freezing point
For reliable, consistent brake system operation, brake fluid must maintain a constant viscosity under a wide range of temperatures, including extreme cold. This is especially important in systems with an anti-lock braking system (ABS), traction control, and stability control.
Lubrication of moving parts
Both master and slave cylinders of drum and disc brake systems contain pistons which must be able to move freely. To reduce friction and wear, polygycols are added to break fluids as lubricants.
Materials compatibility
Brake fluids must be compatible with brake system materials. Seals swelling tests are carried out at 70°C and 120°C on standardized SBR and EPDM rubber specimens and on specific elastomers used by OEMs. During these tests changes in the volume, diameter and hardness of the specimens are measured.
Anticorrosion protection
Additives (corrosion inhibitors) are added to the base fluid to protect metal used inside components such as calipers, master cylinders… against corrosion
Oxidative resistance and Thermal stability
Braking is the conversion of kinetic energy into heat by friction. The quantities of heat that result are considerable and depend on the weight and speed of the vehicle.
Nevertheless, under extreme conditions of operation, brake fluids reach temperatures of more than 150°C. Their cracking phenomenon is a direct measure of their thermal stability. This is determined by the quality of glycol ethers components and the quantity and nature of antioxidants.
Antioxidants improve the thermal stability and also hold up the aging of the fluid by oxidation into acidic components.
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Brake fluid performances specifications
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DOT 3 brake fluid
DOT 3 brake fluids are usually glycol ether based, but that is not because they are required to be. In fact, FMVSS116 doesn’t precise the chemical composition of brake fluids. It simply dictates the fluid physical properties. However, brake fluid industry has, by consensus, decreed that glycol ether fluids are the most economical way to meet the requirements.
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DOT 4 brake fluids
DOT 4 brake fluids are also glycol ether based but they contain in addition borate esters in order to improve some properties including increased dry and wet boiling points. DOT 4 brake fluids have a more stable and higher boiling point during the early portion of their life, but ironically once the fluid does actually begin to absorb water its boiling point will typically fall off more rapidly than a typical DOT 3 brake fluid. By FMVSS116 standards, DOT 4 brake fluids must have a minimum dry boiling point of 230°C and a minimum wet boiling point of 155°C.
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DOT 5.1 brake fluids
Historically, DOT 5-level performance (specifically boiling points and viscosity) could only be achieved with silicone-based fluids. However, modern compositions have created glycol ether-based fluids which now meet DOT 5 brake fluids requirements in these key areas. Consequently, the DOT 5.1 brake fluids level was created to differentiate these two very different chemistries which both meet DOT 5 brake fluids performance requirements.
In so many words, DOT 5.1 brake fluids are simply DOT 4-type brake fluids which meet DOT 5 brake fluids performance requirements. Because of this, they typically can be mixed with DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluids without concern. Sometimes, they are even referred to as ‘DOT 4 Plus’ or ‘Super DOT 4’ brake fluids because they are more similar to a conventional DOT 4 fluid by chemistry than they are to a conventional DOT 5 brake fluid. In fact, DOT 5.1 is essentially comprised of borate esters. -
DOT 5 brake fluids
DOT 5 brake fluids have been developed for military applications, i.e. for vehicles that could stand in storage for years, without maintenance and had to perform immediately when required. They are superior in terms of boiling point retention and corrosion/conservation properties, since they don’t absorb water. Up to now car manufacturers have not moved to use silicone fluids for first fill regular cars for two main reasons:
- Low air solubility, which leads to a spongy brake pedal feel.
- No water solubility, moisture which enters in the system can be corrosive and can freeze at low temperatures or boil at high temperatures.
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Synthetic oil is a lubricant consisting of chemical compounds that are artificially made (synthesized). Synthetic lubricants can be manufactured using chemically modified petroleum components rather than whole crude oil, but can also be synthesized from other raw materials. Synthetic oil is used as a substitute for lubricant refined from petroleum when operating in extremes of temperature, because, in general, it provides superior mechanical and chemical properties to those found in traditional mineral oils
Find more on our QUARTZ 9000 synthetic engine oils on
http://catalog.lubricants.total.com/search-product?pros=1&keys=quartz+9000What is synthetic blend oil?
Part-synthetic, also called synthetic blend or semi-synthetic—oils are blends of mineral oil (conventional) and synthetic base oil.
Synthetic blend oils allow to combine a better overall performance of synthetic oils with a good ratio quality/price.
Find more on our QUARTZ 7000 synthetic blend engine oils on
http://catalog.lubricants.total.com/search-product?pros=1&keys=QUARTZ+7000+Synthetic oil vs conventional
Synthetic oils bring 5 main advantages over conventional motor oils:
- Superior temperature resistance. Synthetic oils can safely handle higher operating temperatures without breaking down. Synthetic oils are thus recommended for hot climates as well as heavy-duty, turbocharged or hard-use applications.
- Better low temperature performance, making easier cold starts. Synthetics flow freely at extremely low temperatures (-30 °/- 40° C)
- Better Engine Protection. As motor oil travels through the engine, some of the additives can be sheared, literally cut in half, by high-speed engine parts, thinning the oil. Full synthetic motor oils resist shear under heavy loads better than conventional oils. This helps synthetic motor oil maintain its viscosity grade, enabling it to offer better engine protection and withstand more extreme engine conditions.
- Lower oil consumption. Synthetic motor oils experience less "boil off" than conventional motor oils. A good synthetic will lose only about four percent of its weight when run at 400 degrees for six hours, compared to a 30% loss for a conventional petroleum based oil. The lower evaporation rate means less oil consumption between changes.
- Cleaner engines. Synthetics don't break down or sludge up as fast as ordinary mineral based oils do. This means that the short trip to the store and back or a lot of city driving in the winter does not accumulate sludge in the engine as fast and lubrication efficiency is maintained.
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It is the rate of change of viscosity between 2 temperatures. The lower the Viscosity Index, the more the drop in viscosity as the oil warms up. The higher the VI value, the less the drop in viscosity as the oil warms up. Generally speaking, the less it changes, across a range of temperatures, the better.
The VI scale goes from 0 to 100, with 0 being the worst, and 100 being the best. New products are now better than when the scale was first made, so some new products have scores as high as 400.
As oil heats up, its ability to provide effective lubrication diminishes. As this decreases, friction and heat increase, which can lead to mechanical failures. Therefore, the longer an oil can retain its optimum viscosity, the more effectively it will lubricate an engine and prevent damage. In this way, viscosity index can be a useful way of judging an oil's overall quality, and is an essential piece of information when selecting an oil for heavy-duty use involving wide variations in temperature.
High or Low Viscosity Index ?
A lubricant may merit having a high VI for one or more of the following reasons:
- The optimum viscosity is not known
- Varying loads and speeds exist
- Varying ambient temperatures exist
- To boost energy efficiency
- To boost oil service life (lower average temperature)
- To boost machine service life (fewer repairs and downtime)
Cheaper, lower VI lubricants may make sense if
- Speeds and loads are constant
- Temperature is constant (constant ambient temperature or a heat exchanger is in use)
- The optimum viscosity at the operating temperature is known and is consistently achieved
An oil’s VI can also tell you useful information about a lubricant’s formulation, including the type and quality of base oils. For instance, highly refined and pure mineral oils will have correspondingly higher VIs. Certain additives, such as viscosity-index improvers and pour-point depressants, influence VI as well.
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You can follow our main recommendations and motor oil ratings:
- If you have a passenger car :
- If you have a motorcycle or scooter :
- If you have public works equipment:
If you want to go even further,discover our lubricants’homologations, description, technical sheet, safety data sheet (SDS) visit our online catalogue.
Nb - What is motor oil weight?
SAE J300 has established eleven viscosity grades, of which six are considered Winter-grades and given a W designation. The 11 viscosity grades are 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60. These numbers are often referred to as the "weight" of a motor oil, and single-grade motor oils are often called "straight-weight" oils.
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It’s hard to find high quality motor oils. You can see understand better below the added value of our QUARTZ motor oils compared to “classic” motor oils
Ordinary engine oils may claim: QUARTZ engine oil truly are: « Approved for use in after-sales » Formulated in collaboration with car manufacturers, used for factory fills and recommended for use in after-sales « Laboratory-tested » Feature technologies which are approved by manufacturers for their future engines « Provide protection » Able to withstand all types of wear, clogging and oxidation in engines and pollution control systems « Deliver performance » The winning technology in motorsports competitions of the highest level (Formula One, Rally events, Endurance, Paris-Dakar, etc.) « Extended range of applications » Able to combine universal solutions with niche applications « A recognised brand » High-profile products that are used in more than 130 countries. TotalEnergies is a partner of some of the world’s biggest manufacturers including Infiniti Red Bull, Renault, Peugeot, Citroën, Lotus, Nissan, Great Wall Motors, Toyota and others Supported by the TotalEnergies brand, it sponsors and is a partner of a number of major media events, such as the Copa TOTAL Sudamericana, the release of the film "Robocop", the Facebook engine race, etc.
« Innovation » At the cutting edge of new "Fuel Economy" direct injection engine developments, hybrid engines, 3-cylinder engines… and engines that excel in all possible ways to reduce friction! If you want to go even further,discover our lubricants’ homologations, description, technical sheet, safety data sheet (SDS) visit our online catalogue
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TotalEnergies has developed 2 automatic transmission fluids (ATF) for Toyota vehicles:
- With Toyota Type WS approval : FLUIDMATIC MV LV
- With Toyota D-II / T / T-III / T-IV level : FLUIDMATIC MV
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TOTAL synthetic base oils are produced by isohydromerization. Isohydromerized base oils used by TOTAL are the fruit of continuous developments and fine tuning in TOTAL refining facilities and with external partners and are used to create tailor-made products for any end-user.
Discover on the picture below to discover the proofs of the top quality of our oils
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AdBlue® is an aqueous solution comprised of 32.5% high purity urea* and of 67.5% deionised water, it respects the ISO22241 norm. Urea is synthetically produced from ammonia and CO2 (carbon dioxide). AdBlue® is used by vehicles equipped with the SCR technology (Selective Catalytic Reduction), such as heavy-duty trucks, buses, refuse collection vehicles, and, from September 2014, certain diesel passenger cars. Biodegradable, soluble in water and colourless, AdBlue® cristallises at -11°C and decomposes into ammonia from 80°C (traces from 30°C). AdBlue® is a registered trademark of the German Association of the Automobile Industry (VDA).
*What is urea?
Urea is a product from the agrochemical industry, mostly used for the production of fertilizers. It is produced from ammonia (NH3) and carbon dioxide (CO2). Its chemical formula is CO(NH2)2. When heated, urea decomposes into gaseous ammonia. It is under this form that is transforms the nitrogen oxides (NOx) into nitrogen and into water (N2, H2O).
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SCR (Selective Catalytic Reduction) is the name of a post-combustion treatment technology for Diesel vehicles, converting nitrogen oxides (NOx) into water steam and nitrogen thanks to the use of AdBlue®. The air we breathe is composed of 80% nitrogen, which is completely harmless. With the heavy-duty vehicles emissions European Norms Euro 4 and Euro 5, almost all car manufacturers have decided to use this technology to respect the new legislations on NOx emissions. For passenger cars, SCR is only appearing in Europe from 2014 with the Euro 6 norm.
AdBlue® is injected into the exhaust pipe, located before the SCR catalyst and after the engine. When heated inside the exhaust pipe, AdBlue® decomposes into ammonia (NH3) and carbon dioxide (CO2). When the NOx react with the ammonia inside the catalyst, the harmful NOx molecules are transformed into harmless nitrogen (N2) and water (H2O).
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Based on the information available at this time, we are aware of what we would need to do in the period immediately after the Brexit date, with regards to REACh (or its equivalent regime in the UK). Total UK is not the lead registrant on any REACh registered substances. These are held centrally by our parent company, Total Marketing & Services - based in Paris. As such, we will remain fully registered under the EU’s REACh regime and where we are required to register substances locally in any system provided by the HSE and/or DEFRA, we will do so within the timeframes set out and with the data packages provided to us by our parent. We are also assisting with the testing of the new UK IT system that HSE and/or DEFRA expects to launch.
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